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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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I ordered a Sanden MT2031 A/C Clutch bearing 35mmx50mmx20mm, but I received a Taide BD 324718/UAC CB9720C which measures 32mm x 47mm x 18mm, so its not even close.

We'll see if the EBay seller comes through, its already been 2 weeks. This bearing appears to be impossible to buy directly in Canada.

I did find out that A/C Compressor Clutch Hub-Denso Santech Industries p/n MT2302 will fit and it includes the bearing that we need.

Both of these parts both the clutch bearing MT2031 and the clutch hub MT2302 are easily available to my friends South of the border at any AutoZone store. AutoZone is selling the MT2031 for $17.99 and the MT2302 hub for $35.99.

I can get the clutch bearing from R&Y A/C Compressors I for US$22.85 and the Clutch Hub for MT2302 for US$41.29.

I will inform you guys when I get some parts.

peace
Hog
 

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Sanden A/C Compressor Service Guide

Here is a link to the Sanden Compressor Service Guide. It has the step by step instructions on how to change out the clutch and set the clutch gap, as well as all the proper torque specs for every component. It shows how to diagnose various failures as well.
It should be helpful for someone.

http://www.sanden.com/productlibrary/manuals/SD_Service_Guide_Rev_2.pdf

I have reordered the Sanden MT2031 bearing from Autozone for CAN$23.88 with shipping of CAN$18.05.

peace
Hog
 

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2008 chevy trailblazer_lt
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I tried this repair tonight. But unlike all you guys, I failed miserably. I even rented the compressor clutch tool and small gear puller from autozone. But what no pictures of videos I've seen to date show, is that my truck has two metal cooler lines that go right in front of the pulley. Theres just enough room to get a socket on the nut, but not enough to back it out, and nowhere near enough space for any kind of pulley/gear puller.

I do not have the experience to start taking apart fluid filled lines, so I gave up. Mine is a 5.3 so I wonder if it's a V8 thing? I don't think I'm going to be able to do this. And if I'm going to pay a mechanic to do it, I might as well just have him replace the whole compressor. I was looking forward to fixing it with a $20 part myself though. Luckily on V8's, the AC is on it's own dedicated belt, so I've been running with that belt off so I don't have to listen to the horrible noise.

If anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears. But I'm not feeling very confident about this one.



 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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that is the size I bought. 50 x 35 x 20. I measured after taking it tho

as for compressor IDK. I bought a 705k6 belt to bypass the a/c while the bearing got here
So glad I bought this belt so I can get to fixing my ac compressor clutch bearing when the timing is better. Plus this little belt will be useful if I run into as similar problem later or in a pinch as a back up belt (other than my old serpentine belt I kept after changing one out).
Works great for my 2004 TB LT 4.2 I6

Love this forum!
 

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Got the bearing replaced-- not sure how you other guys got through each step so quickly-- maybe it is because my truck is 13 years old versus no quite so old for other when they did this. Anyway-- great resource on this forum and any time I got stuck or couldn't figure it, someone showed or wrote something in the thread that gave me an idea (like the "bigger hammer" needed in my case to get that bad bearing out.

Still need to tweak my gap settings for the ac clutch but the noise when not engaging the AC is gone. I think I need to get the gap closer so that the clutch fully engages with the pulley. It sort of slips on and off and makes a scarping noise at present.

Best part though is that once you figure out get that shroud out, it is so simple the next time. I had to go back and pound my pulley in a little further (went a bit too far apparently if I need to lessen the gap) and removing the shroud/clutch was super easy the second time.
 

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One more thing to add...



the mirror setup I made to be able to see the snap ring

I cut a large piece of cardboard to cover the radiator, then taped this cheap mirror to the cardboard to give me a view. Next time I need to do this, I may add one more mirror to the engine side so I can view it without having to reverse my actions (what a pain that was!).
 

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I had to go to the auto parts place (Oreillys) twice because I failed to read the first fan clutch removal kits instructions which clearly did not mention any Chevrolet vehicles. These were the flat wrenches and they were just the wrong size for the TB bolts. The one picture above did a great job grabbing the top two bolts a finally allow me to break the nut open on the fan.
 

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MT2302 Pulley w/Bearing

Anyone know ir you can buy the whole thing instead of messing around with the bearing just change the whole clutch assembly?????
I've read through this entire thread trying to find out if anyone knows where to get the pulley with the bearing already pressed in or if this part even exists anymore without buying the entire compressor assembly. The only thing I read from one member was the part# MT2302. I have looked high and low on the internet trying to find parts for the TRSA12 A/C compressor. I have a '04 trailblazer and the compressor itself pumps just fine. The clutch needs replaced along with new bearings. I can get the bearing information by itself off the old bearings because I'm taking the clutch off now so thats not an issue, plus it sounds like the pulley bearing is the 50x35x20 everyone talks about. I just don't have a bearing press and I hate hammering out and in new bearings because it's so easy to screw up the pulley. Next thing you know the bearing goes out again. Until I get a press I'd like to just order a whole clutch assembly including the clutch itself with the bearing installed. It would probably come with a new magnet too. Has anyone been able to locate this assembly lately and if so where? Part numbers? Thanks in advance!!!

Side note: This is my first post. I have been a member for years but I've always been able to find out what I needed just by searching the threads. This site has been a lifesaver!!! I have been through just about everything you can possibly go through with a trailblazer. I've done 90% of the work myself and have a ton of pics and helpful info I plan on posting in the future. This has been my wife's ride for many years and now I plan on making a toy out of it. Only 110,000 miles so lots of life left and so many new parts put in. On this fix I'm going through the whole front of the motor to fix the whole fan clutch/water pump/ ac cooling issues along with new sensors, thermostat, belt, hoses, and pulleys. Completely flushed the system and getting ready to install all new OEM parts. No more knock offs. I want this thing going another 100,000 without tearing back into it...haha! Probably go through the intake while I'm there. Already done new plugs and replaced a few coils. Next, all new suspension everything. Here in the midwest it all rusts to pieces. Just had a new tranny put in, long story...and the fuel tank replaced with the recall they extended. Should be in pretty good shape when its all done. Thanks again for any help. Message me if you have any questions about your TB that you can't find an answer too.
 

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Since I can't find another thread about this, I thought this might help others in the same situation.
All auto parts stores, local and online, list the wrong size bearing so if you're going to do this yourself measure the bearing before you order. Mine is 35x50x20mm, bearingsdirect.com has them in stock for 27 plus shipping.

You will need to remove the fan/shroud and belt, I won't go into detail here as there are many write ups already.....

Pic 1 - remove the nut holding the clutch on the compressor. You’ll need to do what I did (or something similar) to prevent the clutch from turning while loosening the nut. It’s not really that tight, just tight enough that I couldn’t prevent it from turning with my hand. Once the nut is off the clutch will come off.
Pic 2 - the clutch shim, keep it in a safe place!! Without this, the clutch will be locked against the pulley at all times when reassembled.
Pic 3 - Remove the snap ring
Pic 4 - using a 3 jaw puller, remove the pulley.
Pic 5 - Grind off the "dimples" (or whatever you call them, they hold the bearing in) using a dremel. I found the cutoff wheel to work the best.
Pic 6 - Turn the pulley over and tap it out. Be sure to alternate sides so the bearing stays straight as it comes out. Once out, clean up everything with some carb or brake cleaner.
Pic 7 - Sand any rough areas where the "dimples" were with 220 grit, clean it and apply a little grease to help the new bearing in.
Pic 8 - Gently tap the bearing in using a piece of wood, rubber mallot or whatever. Luckily I had a piece of aluminum the same diameter as the outer race. Just don't beat the snot out of it and stay away from the inner race! Hitting the inner race will ruin the new bearing.
Pic 9 & 10 - Using a punch, lock the new bearing in.... Be sure to do this all the way around.
Pic 11 - Clean out the bore using q-tips and brake cleaner. After this is done, reinstall the pulley on the compressor. I was able to do this by hand if you can't, gently tap it with a rubber mallot alternating sides. It is NOT a press fit, it should go on easy.
Pic 12 - Replacing the snap ring. Look at it closely, one side has a bevel and the other has a sharp edge on the inner diameter. The sharp edge goes toward the compressor. If this is reversed, the snap ring will not "snap" into the groove. Ask me how I know.....
Pic 13 - Use a mirror to verify the snap ring is in all the way around before final assembly..... Replace the clutch shim, clutch and clutch nut.

Total time = 2.5 hours with a lunch break

:D
Thank you so much for posting your helpful article. I did this,procedure on my envoy and about 4 hours and $17.00 later, I am good to go!
 

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Since I can't find another thread about this, I thought this might help others in the same situation.
All auto parts stores, local and online, list the wrong size bearing so if you're going to do this yourself measure the bearing before you order. Mine is 35x50x20mm, bearingsdirect.com has them in stock for 27 plus shipping.

You will need to remove the fan/shroud and belt, I won't go into detail here as there are many write ups already.....

Pic 1 - remove the nut holding the clutch on the compressor. You’ll need to do what I did (or something similar) to prevent the clutch from turning while loosening the nut. It’s not really that tight, just tight enough that I couldn’t prevent it from turning with my hand. Once the nut is off the clutch will come off.
Pic 2 - the clutch shim, keep it in a safe place!! Without this, the clutch will be locked against the pulley at all times when reassembled.
Pic 3 - Remove the snap ring
Pic 4 - using a 3 jaw puller, remove the pulley.
Pic 5 - Grind off the "dimples" (or whatever you call them, they hold the bearing in) using a dremel. I found the cutoff wheel to work the best.
Pic 6 - Turn the pulley over and tap it out. Be sure to alternate sides so the bearing stays straight as it comes out. Once out, clean up everything with some carb or brake cleaner.
Pic 7 - Sand any rough areas where the "dimples" were with 220 grit, clean it and apply a little grease to help the new bearing in.
Pic 8 - Gently tap the bearing in using a piece of wood, rubber mallot or whatever. Luckily I had a piece of aluminum the same diameter as the outer race. Just don't beat the snot out of it and stay away from the inner race! Hitting the inner race will ruin the new bearing.
Pic 9 & 10 - Using a punch, lock the new bearing in.... Be sure to do this all the way around.
Pic 11 - Clean out the bore using q-tips and brake cleaner. After this is done, reinstall the pulley on the compressor. I was able to do this by hand if you can't, gently tap it with a rubber mallot alternating sides. It is NOT a press fit, it should go on easy.
Pic 12 - Replacing the snap ring. Look at it closely, one side has a bevel and the other has a sharp edge on the inner diameter. The sharp edge goes toward the compressor. If this is reversed, the snap ring will not "snap" into the groove. Ask me how I know.....
Pic 13 - Use a mirror to verify the snap ring is in all the way around before final assembly..... Replace the clutch shim, clutch and clutch nut.

Total time = 2.5 hours with a lunch break

:D
So, I'm new to the forum and a posted a bunch of issues I'm having with my 08 TBLT 4.2 on the "introductions " forum but I figure if I copy and paste the issues in an area where it's on topic, I might get some feedback sooner.
This is what I posted regarding the ac compressor:
The belt squeaked when I bought it. Simple repair -replace the belt. Nope. Alternator? 2 mechanics and an alternator rebuilder working out of his home all fugured that was the culprit. Replaced the alternator with new. Squeak/whirring gone? Nope.
The whirring was coming from the left side (driver's seat perspective) of the engine. Next thing was the idler pulley. Pulled it. Spun it. Seemed smooth but I figured I'd blow it out and clean it up a bit. Squeak gone? Nope.
Next in line is the ac compressor. Yep. There is a good amount of resistance. Now, bear in mind, this is the BEST ac I've ever had in any vehicle and I really don't want to screw that up!
After reading the posts on changing the ac bearing here, I'm still left with a few questions..
-When I remove the clutch, is it a "solid unit" or does it fall to pieces when it comes out?
-How do I remove the "spring clip" or "c clip" or "snap ring" (I think I got it's name right on that one) if I can't see the 2 little holes for the snap ring pliers to fit into? The compressor is quite deep in the engine compartment and it looks like all reaching in to do the job is going to be a headache. -Willing to put up with the headache, just don't want to get stuck in the middle of the job without a little idea of how to proceed:) I know there's a bypass belt mentioned in the thread (705k6) but it's for an 02 model and I don't know if it matches my year.
Your feedback will be greatly appreciated:)
Ross
 

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I know there's a bypass belt mentioned in the thread (705k6) but it's for an 02 model and I don't know if it matches my year.
Your feedback will be greatly appreciated:)
Ross
I will leave a link to the topic in which I used the short belt
 

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Thanks for everyone's pictures & steps for replacing the AC bearing.:cool:

My AC is still working ok for now, But that bearing is starting to make some whining noise!
I imagine I'll be replacing the bearing pretty soon, This information should give me a good idea of how to replace it.

Doug
 
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