Nice work! Saves the cost of a new compressor for some labor in your own garage. Nice write up, good job....:woohoo:
A/C Clutch Bearing - How to......
Since I can't find another thread about this, I thought this might help others in the same situation.
All auto parts stores, local and online, list the wrong size bearing so if you're going to do this yourself measure the bearing before you order. Mine is 35x50x20mm, bearingsdirect.com has them in stock for 27 plus shipping.
You will need to remove the fan/shroud and belt, I won't go into detail here as there are many write ups already.....
Pic 1 - remove the nut holding the clutch on the compressor. You’ll need to do what I did (or something similar) to prevent the clutch from turning while loosening the nut. It’s not really that tight, just tight enough that I couldn’t prevent it from turning with my hand. Once the nut is off the clutch will come off.
Pic 2 - the clutch shim, keep it in a safe place!! Without this, the clutch will be locked against the pulley at all times when reassembled.
Pic 3 - Remove the snap ring
Pic 4 - using a 3 jaw puller, remove the pulley.
Pic 5 - Grind off the "dimples" (or whatever you call them, they hold the bearing in) using a dremel. I found the cutoff wheel to work the best.
Pic 6 - Turn the pulley over and tap it out. Be sure to alternate sides so the bearing stays straight as it comes out. Once out, clean up everything with some carb or brake cleaner.
Pic 7 - Sand any rough areas where the "dimples" were with 220 grit, clean it and apply a little grease to help the new bearing in.
Pic 8 - Gently tap the bearing in using a piece of wood, rubber mallot or whatever. Luckily I had a piece of aluminum the same diameter as the outer race. Just don't beat the snot out of it and stay away from the inner race! Hitting the inner race will ruin the new bearing.
Pic 9 & 10 - Using a punch, lock the new bearing in.... Be sure to do this all the way around.
Pic 11 - Clean out the bore using q-tips and brake cleaner. After this is done, reinstall the pulley on the compressor. I was able to do this by hand if you can't, gently tap it with a rubber mallot alternating sides. It is NOT a press fit, it should go on easy.
Pic 12 - Replacing the snap ring. Look at it closely, one side has a bevel and the other has a sharp edge on the inner diameter. The sharp edge goes toward the compressor. If this is reversed, the snap ring will not "snap" into the groove. Ask me how I know.....
Pic 13 - Use a mirror to verify the snap ring is in all the way around before final assembly..... Replace the clutch shim, clutch and clutch nut.
Total time = 2.5 hours with a lunch break
All auto parts stores, local and online, list the wrong size bearing so if you're going to do this yourself measure the bearing before you order. Mine is 35x50x20mm, bearingsdirect.com has them in stock for 27 plus shipping.
You will need to remove the fan/shroud and belt, I won't go into detail here as there are many write ups already.....
Pic 1 - remove the nut holding the clutch on the compressor. You’ll need to do what I did (or something similar) to prevent the clutch from turning while loosening the nut. It’s not really that tight, just tight enough that I couldn’t prevent it from turning with my hand. Once the nut is off the clutch will come off.
Pic 2 - the clutch shim, keep it in a safe place!! Without this, the clutch will be locked against the pulley at all times when reassembled.
Pic 3 - Remove the snap ring
Pic 4 - using a 3 jaw puller, remove the pulley.
Pic 5 - Grind off the "dimples" (or whatever you call them, they hold the bearing in) using a dremel. I found the cutoff wheel to work the best.
Pic 6 - Turn the pulley over and tap it out. Be sure to alternate sides so the bearing stays straight as it comes out. Once out, clean up everything with some carb or brake cleaner.
Pic 7 - Sand any rough areas where the "dimples" were with 220 grit, clean it and apply a little grease to help the new bearing in.
Pic 8 - Gently tap the bearing in using a piece of wood, rubber mallot or whatever. Luckily I had a piece of aluminum the same diameter as the outer race. Just don't beat the snot out of it and stay away from the inner race! Hitting the inner race will ruin the new bearing.
Pic 9 & 10 - Using a punch, lock the new bearing in.... Be sure to do this all the way around.
Pic 11 - Clean out the bore using q-tips and brake cleaner. After this is done, reinstall the pulley on the compressor. I was able to do this by hand if you can't, gently tap it with a rubber mallot alternating sides. It is NOT a press fit, it should go on easy.
Pic 12 - Replacing the snap ring. Look at it closely, one side has a bevel and the other has a sharp edge on the inner diameter. The sharp edge goes toward the compressor. If this is reversed, the snap ring will not "snap" into the groove. Ask me how I know.....
Pic 13 - Use a mirror to verify the snap ring is in all the way around before final assembly..... Replace the clutch shim, clutch and clutch nut.
Total time = 2.5 hours with a lunch break
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Thanks.
The dealer wanted 795.00, local shop was 590.00. So yeah, the 32.95 + 2.5 hours of my time was well worth the effort.
The dealer wanted 795.00, local shop was 590.00. So yeah, the 32.95 + 2.5 hours of my time was well worth the effort.
Looks like normal snap ring pliers. Maybe the ones with interchangable tips. I have one that looks like this, under $20.:
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Good to see eveything worked out!
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