A bunch of repairs - what can I do, and in which order should they be done?

2634 Views 14 Replies 11 Participants Last post by Bowhunt_Pro, May 14, 2009

beckham

Discussion Starter · May 13, 2009 (Edited)

Hello all!

I put my 2003 Envoy SLT in to a Goodwrench garage for inspection this morning. I knew I had an oil leak and suspected a bearing needed replacing. Here's the list of problems their guy told me over the phone (I didn't see the official report yet):

1. Alternator belt cracked - needs replacing.
2. Front right bearing.
3. Stabilizer bar link/bushing.
4. Lower right ball joint is loose.
5. Leak from Rack and Pinion.
6. Transmittion seal is leaking.
7. Read brake disc and pads - need replacing.

I can do the brakes myself, but what about the others? He said to do everything now will cost about $4000 CAD, which is out of the question. What do you think needs doing now, and what can I delay?

Thanks for your help!

:tiphat

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the roadie

· #2 · May 13, 2009

1) Get it into an independent garage for a second opinion.

2) You didn't say how bad the leak was, but mechanics often use the work "leak" when we would say "seep" or "slight sheen from wetness caused by one drop per month leakage". Where is the leak that bothered you and how many drops a day did you get out of it?

3) If you can change your oil, you can change the serpentine belt for $30.

4) If you can do brakes, you can do the wheel bearing. Is it making noise?

5) You can do the stabilizer bar end links, too. Are they clunking, or loose enough to notice yourself?

6) He must have three kids in dental school at the same time to quote $4000.

We can't help you prioritize the issues without knowing what you do about severity. Brakes are a safety item. The serpentine belt is trivial to change. Everything else needs to be prioritized by the amount of leakage or noise they make. Data we don't have. And all can be addressed by an independent mechanic who knows GM. No need to go to the over-priced dealer for simple things like this.

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tallcorn

· #3 · May 13, 2009

Outrageous. You can do the belt-soon. If you can do brakes, likely you can do the wheel bearing. Get under the truck and look at the stabilizer bar and bushing. You can then decide if you can do it. It's probably no big deal. The rear end and transmission leaks need more information. They depend on how bad the leaks and what seals. Oil in small amounts is still cheap if it will put off fixing the leaks 'till later.

The lower right ball joint and the wheel bearing should be fixed ASAP. Check out independent shops that do them. Bad ball joints aren't safe and can ruin tires and your day.

beckham

Discussion Starter · #4 · May 13, 2009

Thanks for the reply. I will get a second opinion... I just need to find a mechanic I can trust! Some answers below:

the roadie said:
1) Get it into an independent garage for a second opinion.

2) You didn't say how bad the leak was, but mechanics often use the work "leak" when we would say "seep" or "slight sheen from wetness caused by one drop per month leakage". Where is the leak that bothered you and how many drops a day did you get out of it?
Towards the front left of the engine bay. Several big drops a day are leaking.

3) If you can change your oil, you can change the serpentine belt for $30.
I changed the belt last year which is odd. I'll see what Mechanic #2 says.

4) If you can do brakes, you can do the wheel bearing. Is it making noise?
Yes, it is making noise - the faster the louder! I checked the Haynes manual, and replacing it seems tricky as well as requiring special equipment.

5) You can do the stabilizer bar end links, too. Are they clunking, or loose enough to notice yourself?
What do you mean by clunking? How would I know if they are loose?

6) He must have three kids in dental school at the same time to quote $4000.
Lol

We can't help you prioritize the issues without knowing what you do about severity. Brakes are a safety item. The serpentine belt is trivial to change. Everything else needs to be prioritized by the amount of leakage or noise they make. Data we don't have. And all can be addressed by an independent mechanic who knows GM. No need to go to the over-priced dealer for simple things like this.

Bowhunt_Pro

· #5 · May 13, 2009

Do you have a written quote you can scan and post? Sounds like three kids in dental school and a high maintenance ex-wife

rbarrios

· #6 · May 13, 2009

you say you changed the belt last year... did YOU do it- or some shop?
changing the belt is so easy.
Witha a ratchet, the belt- (and maybe a breaker bar) it can be done in 5 minutes.
It will take you longer to stand in line and get the part from the parts guy.

beckham

Discussion Starter · #7 · May 13, 2009

Bowhunt_Pro said:
Do you have a written quote you can scan and post? Sounds like three kids in dental school and a high maintenance ex-wife

I'm picking it up tonight, along with the truck. I'll try and scan it for you to take a look.

rbarrios said:
you say you changed the belt last year... did YOU do it- or some shop?
changing the belt is so easy.
Witha a ratchet, the belt- (and maybe a breaker bar) it can be done in 5 minutes.
It will take you longer to stand in line and get the part from the parts guy.

I did it.

the roadie

· #8 · May 13, 2009

I have the factory shop manual, and changed my own wheel bearings. If you have 4WD (please fill out your profile), you will need to buy or rent a 35mm socket. Otherwise there's nothing special to changing it. What does the Haynes manual say?

Front left (assuming driver's side) of the engine bay implies front diff to me more than the rack and pinion, which is further to the rear. Anyway, a trivial examination of newpaper left underneath the vehicle should tell you where the leak is.

Clunking means they make a clunk noise when you go over speed bumps.

TrailVoy

· #9 · May 13, 2009

I take everything the Haynes manual says with a grain of salt... and for ****s sake I wish the damn publishers would give the sockets sizes for crying out loud :hissy::hissy:

fxcarden

· #10 · May 14, 2009

$4000........is that US ?

Holy crap.

WOOLUF1952

· #11 · May 14, 2009

I had replaced the serpintine belt on my daughters '97 Bravada, with a Goodyear Gatorback belt. She went to a dealer for some body work. The mechanic looked at the belt and tried to tell her she needed a new one. So, long story, short question: do you have a GY Gatorback belt? They look cracked even when new.

gmac310

· #12 · May 14, 2009

:iagree: plus regular non-gatorback belts will start to get small cracks in them almost immediately because as they spin they get both forwards and backwards. I read on Alldata that small cracks are no reason for concern because of the flexing,. The only way I could see a belt cracking so soon to the point of having to be replaced is if you live in a desert environment where it is hot and dry and gets cod at night.

SteveTB03

· #13 · May 14, 2009

gmac310 said:
:iagree: plus regular non-gatorback belts will start to get small cracks in them almost immediately because as they spin they get both forwards and backwards. I read on Alldata that small cracks are no reason for concern because of the flexing,. The only way I could see a belt cracking so soon to the point of having to be replaced is if you live in a desert environment where it is hot and dry and gets cod at night.

Maybe thats a sign i should replace mine!! :yes:

MichEnvoyBoy

· #14 · May 14, 2009

Ill make a deal with ya - I will do all of that work for you, give you a "goodwrench certified" stamp on the receipt, and do it for cheaper - $3,999.99

I agree, change the belt yourself, do the brakes, do the wheel bearing. Crap, even the ball joint isnt that big of a deal to replace.

$4000 in CAD or US currency is definately nuts.

Bowhunt_Pro

· #15 · May 14, 2009

Need details..........?

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