Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum banner

4x4 not working

516 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Snicklefritz4
2007 trailblazer ls 4.2 290,000 miles

4x4 was working earlier today. Had it on 4hi for the storm. Normally kept in 2hi

Front wheels stopped getting power mid drive. Can hear the transfer case engaging. Can also hear clicking/ buzzing noise in front end.

Switching to 2hi and back to 4hi gives a second of engagement then back to nothing.

I checked front diff oil level a month ago and it was full and there are no oil stains on my driveway.

Any ideas/ thoughts?
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Had 4x4 working on the way home. Stopped working just short of getting home.

I switch into 2hi

Upon backing into my driveway in 2hi, I get symptoms of hopping/ binding. It takes two full locks to get into my parking spot.

The truck wouldn't budge at full lock even though it was in 2hi.

I straightened out, hopped the curb, and parked for the night.

So the problem is definitely intermittent.

I will say I can definitely hear a noise at the front tire area when it is in 4hi, and the back tires are spinning but the fronts are not...
See less See more
This bothers me ; "I will say I can definitely hear a noise at the front tire area when it is in 4hi, and the back tires are spinning but the fronts are not... "

Just a long distance guess --- front axle lock mechanism isn't quite making into "LOCK" condition --- all the time.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Sooo. The front axle disconnect is probably bad/ worn out?

Is there any way to diag this. No lights or codes are present after scanning with bluedriver.

I can probably pick up a used disconnect and motor assembly from the junkyard for pretty cheap.

All this jazz happens on the passenger side only right?

I probably won't work on this until it's nice outside. But I want to know as much as possible before I tackle it.
During winter (read: ice/snow/salt/gravel) on the roads and questionable gaskets on the servo motor that drives the fork to move the slider that puts you in and out of locked front axle --- I say you might start there and take the motor out and see if it's stuck ... or full of rust/corruption and won't move at all ... or the fork is busted or lost the pads or --- or --- just go take a physical inspection of it as it's a very likely suspect because of the noise you say it has.

I'm also not too sure that there's any codes to pop for this failure - after all, the command goes out and I'm not too sure there's a parity test for it being accomplished.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
The front axle disconnect isn't a very robust piece of kit (as our British brethren like to say). The needle bearings on mine literally fell apart and out when I was replacing the front axle, which necessitated the replacement of the axle disconnect (yes, I know, fancy words...). I wouldn't bother with a junkyard unit since new units aren't that expensive. The only caveat (ooh, another fancy word) is that if you do get a new disconnect take it apart and grease everything well, mine came with very little grease inside.
Sooo. The front axle disconnect is probably bad/ worn out?

Is there any way to diag this. No lights or codes are present after scanning with bluedriver.

I can probably pick up a used disconnect and motor assembly from the junkyard for pretty cheap.

All this jazz happens on the passenger side only right?

I probably won't work on this until it's nice outside. But I want to know as much as possible before I tackle it.
I'm having this exact same issue rn. I believe my disconnect **** out on me too. I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet but I do believe that is the problem.

It's about $100 for a new part. Or if you want to replace just the fork (most likely what went bad) it's about $60. I recommend getting a new one because a used one will just be worn and may only work for a short while.

It's connected to the passenger side of the oil pan, you have to disconnect all the moving and suspension parts along with the wheel on the passenger side to slide your CV axle out and get the part off.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I'm having this exact same issue rn. I believe my disconnect **** out on me too. I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet but I do believe that is the problem.

It's about $100 for a new part. Or if you want to replace just the fork (most likely what went bad) it's about $60. I recommend getting a new one because a used one will just be worn and may only work for a short while.

It's connected to the passenger side of the oil pan, you have to disconnect all the moving and suspension parts along with the wheel on the passenger side to slide your CV axle out and get the part off.
Lift kit made 4x4 stop

This was my discussion I had and a lot of good information in here if you scroll pass the BS
Lift kit made 4x4 stop

This was my discussion I had and a lot of good information in here if you scroll pass the BS
Cripes!

Don't tell him that --- BS is the catsup on your fries ... the Super-Size of your Dr. Pepper, neat ... and always has at least a modicum of information to add to the convo.

.... and .... besides .... every post needs a whipping boy ... a colorful idiot with counterintuitive factoids ... a town clown (I HATE clowns) ---- to blame when things go wrong after this (very) expensive (free) advice proffered by a bunch of hung-over addicts (semi-pro alcohlics) from the night/day/week/lifetime before.


.
  • Haha
Reactions: 1
Thanks for the advice guys. I'll make a note in my calendar to reply to this thread with results when I tackle this in a few months.

2hi is back to operating as normal so I should be fine as long as it doesn't snow 10 inches again.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Any chance you heard any noises before the 4wheel seized? Maybe howling/grinding from the front end could indicate differential issues. Just a long time owner… NOT a certified Chevy tech.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top