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The 5 Liter Ford Corporate engines were notorious for this kinda of deposit too. They had a "2-hump" oil pan in which the tie rod passed so close to the pan that the engineers put a notch in the pan.

Unfortunately, that made it really complicate to change the oil in the bump where the oil was hidden ---- so --->

THE BRIGHT ENGINEERS AT FORD put a second oil pan plug in it because turning the vehicle upside-down just to drain the oil didn't appear to be a good option - not that the customer would understand it anyway!

Sadly, quickie oil change shops didn't want to drain the engine twice, so they just ignored the second plug and the customer got 1.75 quarts of oil every time.

After doing this a few times, the unchanged oil turned into overcooked molasses and even if you stuck your finger in the drain hole, nothing came out. Usually the first symptom was a total loss of oil pressure and if the customer actually paid attention to the red light, they'd stop and get towed.

But the oil pump drive shaft by Ford was only 1/4" hex drive and it couldn't take all the pressure so it tended to wind itself up around the camshaft and then there was trouble --- bigtime!

So, you see: the top of the engine was hot, there wasn't enough oil to cool things and the deposits crystallized there, but in the pan was a whole different pudding-story!

Gawd --- I loved dem Fords!

Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money! Mo' money!
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Yea my uncle has a 5.4 runs terrible with all problems described… and my dad has a 4.6 runs pretty good but I’m not a fan of either. I always watch my gauges full time and keep a good ear out for noises. Hopefully this ole Chevy will pull through for me without too many issues concerning this sludge..
 

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Yea my uncle has a 5.4 runs terrible with all problems described… and my dad has a 4.6 runs pretty good but I’m not a fan of either. I always watch my gauges full time and keep a good ear out for noises. Hopefully this ole Chevy will pull through for me without too many issues concerning this sludge..
Ok, so any progress ? I have a 04 TB w/P0016 the only other Non-code (evap sys leak test failed) but no indication of if there is a leak or if the system test is not working, I did the seafoam down the tube a few times but still no suction . My next step is to have a shop put a scope on it &/or re-program-re-learn ? There doesnt seem to be any other issue the engine runs fine I did replace the Trans w/a "re-conditioned" one (here in Cali things are expensive if you can find them). But it starts fine runs great , most things Ive read say it shouldnt run good or hard start w/P0016. but that isnt the case w/mine. I do need it to pass Cali smog, got this at an auction and Cal DMV wont even give me a title til it passes but that is a whole other stupid thing about Ca DMV don't get me started. Did you git the P0016 issue fixed what else did you do or could it be? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Well I’m still having issues just hit my 500 mile mark last night with this gram 5w30 and I got to say there’s a noticeable improvement she’s getting better gas mileage, shifting smoother and idleing a lot smoother as well. The oil is very nasty at 500 miles but I can see a lot of sludge cleaning off the cam caps I’m just gonna keep changing my oil every 500 miles and do the Berryman’s every day as I have been.
And for clydebman it takes patients and if your moter hasn’t jumped time is it full of sludge? If so have you done anything to clean / prevent it from happening.I’ve been at this for 3 months now and the improvements are slow but mine is definitely getting better.
 

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Hey Clyde ....... First ... I never said to use Seafoam. Seafoam is to clean injectors from the inside ... in the fuel .... and is not aggressive enough for this job.

Use BERRYMAN'S B-12, a capful at a time in a warm engine. That information is in my video.

As a retired CalEPA CARB-BAR certified Brake/Lamp/Smog Inspector-Adjuster-Installer and mechanic, I'll remind you that your vehicle is only being brought kicking and screaming to Federal EPA standards.

California just enforces the law that every vehicle should be inspected for in all the other 48 contiguous states.

If you want tougher restrictions, move to New Jersey or Massachusetts or New York.

Some states don't inspect, some even have Safety Inspections too ... so quit complaining.

You reside there and that you are required to be inspected is contingent upon living there and if you don't like it.... move.

But don't deride the system ... change it if you can (you can't) or work with it.

EDITED @ 1930, MST 01-14-22 because I was tapping my fingers on a make-believe keyboard as my tablet was sitting on the spokes of my steering wheel, me driving at 80 MPH on Hwy90 coming through Missoula --- so there were typos.
 

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Well I’m still having issues just hit my 500 mile mark last night with this gram 5w30 and I got to say there’s a noticeable improvement she’s getting better gas mileage, shifting smoother and idleing a lot smoother as well. The oil is very nasty at 500 miles but I can see a lot of sludge cleaning off the cam caps I’m just gonna keep changing my oil every 500 miles and do the Berryman’s every day as I have been.
And for clydebman it takes patients and if your moter hasn’t jumped time is it full of sludge? If so have you done anything to clean / prevent it from happening.I’ve been at this for 3 months now and the improvements are slow but mine is definitely getting better.
Thanks for the reply, & info.
 

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Hey Clyde ....... First ... I never said to use Seafoam. Seafoam is to clean injectors from the inside ... in the fuel .... and is not aggressive enough for this job.

Use BERRYMAN'S B-12, a capful at a time in a warm engine. That information is in my video.

As a retired CalEPA CARB-BAR certified Brake/Lamp/Smog Inspector-Adjuster-Installer and mechanic, I'll remind you that your vehicle is only being brought kicking and screaming to Federal EPA standards.

California just enforces the law that every vehicle should be inspected for in all the other 48 contiguous states.

If you want tougher restrictions, move to New Jersey or Massachusetts or New York.

Some states don't inspect, some even have Safety Inspections too ... so quit complaining.

You reside there and that you are required to be inspected is contingent upon living there and if you don't like it.... move.

But don't deride the system ... change it if you can (you can't) or work with it.

EDITED @ 1930, MST 01-14-22 because I was tapping my fingers on a make-believe keyboard as my tablet was sitting on the spokes of my steering wheel, me driving at 80 MPH on Hwy90 coming through Missoula --- so there were typos.
Thank you for the info. Berrymans B-12, I will git some, (I just happend to have Sea foam ) You are correct Sea Foam not agressive enough, well it sure doesnt seem to have done any thing. I do appreciate any help, suggestions, pointers, from folks with your knowledge & experience., I did change oil & filter as well as a bad (cracked and leaky) oil pressure sensor Though the oil wasnt burnt or sludgie. Since I dont know what the condition of the vvt is' I will check that out before I buy a new one, inspecting that may tell me if there is/ was more sludge than I thought. So thanks again.

I dont have anything against the smog inspectors or inspections, I lived here in the '70s when we couldn't see mountains 2 mi. from the house, & there was acid rain ect,... But DMV could give me a title since I paid for it, registration and all penalties for the previous owner, then I'd have a choice to sell the vehicle. But the extra form with out a real title would limit how many folks would bother even looking at it. That's all I'm saying.
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Thank you for the info. Berrymans B-12, I will git some, (I just happend to have Sea foam ) You are correct Sea Foam not agressive enough, well it sure doesnt seem to have done any thing. I do appreciate any help, suggestions, pointers, from folks with your knowledge & experience., I did change oil & filter as well as a bad (cracked and leaky) oil pressure sensor Though the oil wasnt burnt or sludgie. Since I dont know what the condition of the vvt is' I will check that out before I buy a new one, inspecting that may tell me if there is/ was more sludge than I thought. So thanks again.

I dont have anything against the smog inspectors or inspections, I lived here in the '70s when we couldn't see mountains 2 mi. from the house, & there was acid rain ect,... But DMV could give me a title since I paid for it, registration and all penalties for the previous owner, then I'd have a choice to sell the vehicle. But the extra form with out a real title would limit how many folks would bother even looking at it. That's all I'm saying.
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OK --- no foul .... the thing you DON'T want to do is wind up in The Gross Polluter's Act and then you're really gonna hate yourself!

I had lived in SoCal since July 1962 and I saw the air turn brown, then dark brown then smoky gray and my eyes watered just like they do now in Smog Lake City, Utah.

I had my Smog Inspector's-Installer/Adjuster license in 1964 and was the 13th licensee in that field - installing KV (Crankcase) ventilation kits on open crank systems.

Every little advance in emission control brought cleaner and better skies and breathing conditions --- but now there are just TMP-TMC (too many people - too many cars) and the testing-enforcement system is busted with overflow vehicles --- cleaner, but in toto, dirtier by sheer numbers of them.

So -- I kinda side with you ..... kinda don't .... because air that is breathable is why I left SoCal for clean air and blue sky. I feel I would still be there - albeit rather broke-r and less happy with all my surfing spots full of people who just want to find a 3'x3' spot to put their butt down in the sand and are still looking for it.

The trash, the crowds and graffiti and dead cars and street campers and taxes and taxes and taxes and the cost of gasoline and the firearm control and ---- just too much of everything.

I miss my yachts in Dana and Newport and my "secret" surfing spots and walking on the beach without body armor and armed guards - etc ..... and deep sea fishing and trout in The High Sierras and camping in El Refugio and Joshua Tree and the great bars in Pioneer Town and all that --- but I'd be dead if I still lived there.

A live surfer is better than a dead dog --- to borrow a phrase from a famous book.....
 

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so I pulled out the vvt and the screens were broke, crinkled up, the few holes that did have screen material over them were clogged, so I did buy a new one, as installation states for warrentee ( Im guessing) I changed oil & filter.I cleared the code started it made sure that there was no indicated , the mil not on , so I turned it off to check & fill oil to to stick marks. start it again (which still starts easy, and revs fine ) no chk eng lit. so as I back out of the drive way put in D start to go fwrd, there comes the chk eng lit, I look at the reader and it is the P0016, I don't yet have a bluetooth app bi-directional nor the one that can read the sign wave pulses. so the B-12 is what i'll continue tomarrow,.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
A quick check up . My truck was throwing a lean code and p0016 . The lean code probably because no cat and the p0016 code still unsolved but she’s running better than before and can avg around 180 miles to a tank . Just done another oil change and it was blacker than diesel oil after only 800 miles and was more than 7 quarts. And when I first got this truck the cruise control wouldn’t work at all wouldn’t even pop up. Now it clicks on and works so something must be getting better . Berry mans treatment darn near everyday along with seafoam or mmo (marvel mystery oil) in the fuel tank .
 

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A quick check up . My truck was throwing a lean code and p0016 . The lean code probably because no cat and the p0016 code still unsolved but she’s running better than before and can avg around 180 miles to a tank . Just done another oil change and it was blacker than diesel oil after only 800 miles and was more than 7 quarts. And when I first got this truck the cruise control wouldn’t work at all wouldn’t even pop up. Now it clicks on and works so something must be getting better . Berry mans treatment darn near everyday along with seafoam or mmo (marvel mystery oil) in the fuel tank .
Well good to know<.. (Maybe)? While out driving cycles for smog inspect, I tried the cruize cont. and no workie either,
wonder if that has anything to do with P0016,? Did you do any checks before it started working ? (cruise cont.). Or do you have a guess at the issue there, that's not there anymore? Im wondering if the cruise not working is its own problem, or maybe its a symptom of something else?

And did you have a misfiring issue, that you fixed, or did that only happen on your 1st drive?

Thanks for the update, and in advance for any reply .
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Yes when I first got the truck cruise would not work unless the codes was cleared but as soon as the code would pop back up ASAP it would stop working now after 4 oil changes cruise control will click on and work but don’t have enough power to stay in 4th it’ll shift funny so I still don’t use it. And it misfired for a good month after I got it I finally pulled my plugs and the front three was black and fouled the back three looked brand new but they was cheap non iridium plugs… I put ac delco iridium like called for a spare set at that from my other Tb and she’s never misfired again so make sure you have the correct plugs in our engine.
 

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I’m about to put a brand new thermostat with housing and replace my leaky water outlet today as well.
Ok let us know after the thermo, I read someones post the new thermo, eliminated the P0016. I can't think of how, the person posting didn't have an explanation, "just replace the thermo for a P0016 code" I'm not doing that much work unless I can logicly trace it to an issue, or at least a symptom of a problem. But since you are doing it to fix another (leak) problem, if your P0016 goes away, I'd be interested. .

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Gotcha just got too the thermostat it looks original but I’ll let ya know if anything changes and I was getting a thermostat code intermittently so hopefully this’ll fix that and my leak and maybe this p0016 because wooh I have no mpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
The old trucks getting some power back and some mileage to her now I pulled my intake and valve cover cleaned the throttle body, intake and runners all inside and the valve cover and in the top of the motor the best I could. I wish it would’ve fixed her completely but nope lol my timing chain wasn’t loose nothing looked broken or horribly worn. Too bad it didn’t fix the idle issue with the air on.. or anything but now I know it don’t have a bad intake leak now just the pcv hose I gotta get tomorrow.
 

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Re-reading your last post --- and I might've said or agreed with you previously on this bad idle problem ----

............but YES --- if that PCV hose leaks it will affect the idle and besides the obvious reason why .....

.......... the un-smoothness of the idle might be attributable to just a couple of the individual CV runners/circuits working and the others ......... (I have NO idea of how many are or are not working in your situation; I'm just shooting a spitball here to see where it sticks) would NOT be working --- nor changing the air-fuel ratio because the allowed amount of vapors from the crankcase would be inconsistent .....

...........but if only half of the CV runners are capable of flowing the crankcase vapors, then those three cylinders will be "different" in the way they are running.

Now here's the problem as I see it --- and remember this is a spitball here ---- is that if only 2 or 3 or 4 cylinders are receiving the correct flow from the crankcase, with the remaining cylinders not co-operating --- power production just being different ----

..... and the computer cannot do anything about it to cause the idle to be "normal".

This is where you get the seat-of-the-pants feeling of a "bad idle" and if it's bad enough, a blinking CEL and possibly a REP to go with it.

IOW --- if anything changes equally in each cylinder --- like the CV is working on all cylinders as originally planned and programmed, then you'll never know or notice any idle discrepancies because the computer has a page in it's operating command library to handle that.

See?

This may all be unnecessary information --- but I just thought I could do a little clarification to my stand on your idle and such.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
It makes sense and no it doesn’t blink my cel ever it just stays on due to the lean code and p0016. After I finished the idle calmed down but now it’s back to a sorta high idle around 1000 but still jumping into gear. And with the pcv circuits I can keep doing the berrymans treatment I’m just at my wits end with this truck I’ve tried everything and after taking it apart and seeing it wasn’t horrible I don’t understand why it still feels like a old ragged out 4 cylinder heck my old 4 cylinder Camry had more power than this truck does right now.
 
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