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Premium Member
2002 Chevrolet TrailBlazer LTZ 4.2L
Joined
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201 Posts
I learned something new today. Gonna check later if my trailer hitch wiring is all set just in case I need this.
 

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Premium Member
2002 Chevrolet TrailBlazer LTZ 4.2L
Joined
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201 Posts
Mine has the keyhole as well. Never knew a dead battery would keep it from unlocking.
 

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Premium Member
'05 Chevy TB EXT
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4,644 Posts
All the keylock does is operate an electrical switch in the latch mechanism ... the actual unlocking is by electric motor.

This may not be across all trim packages etc.

The actual electrical switch is IN the latch and is operated by the vertical relay rod that normally can lock that latch .... but only that latch, if the battery is dead

If the battery is alive, you'd never notice the difference....
...... but double turning the key will both lock or unlock all doors and the hatch since they run electrically either from the fob or the driver's door keylock ...
........ not to forget to mention both armrest lock buttons on the front doors which have the same authority as the fob or the key in the driver's side keylock.
 

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Premium Member
2002 Chevrolet TrailBlazer LTZ 4.2L
Joined
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201 Posts
Key trick did not work for my 02 LTZ. It unlocked just the drivers door.
 

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Premium Member
'05 Chevy TB EXT
Joined
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4,644 Posts
... again .... it matters a lot because of the numerous trim packages and special order items.

My TB is an ex-CHP cruiser or VIP transport vehicle and has a bunch of oddball things ... but my buddy's 06 VOY with leather seats, dancing pedals and #1 or #2 FOB walk-up self adjustment system has the same "with a dead battery-you ain't gettin' in" situation, so it does exist.

I originally thought I had a problem when the lock cylinder fell into the door .... thankfully the FOB still worked THAT TIME ... and I tore into the driver's door looking for a problem and there was none other than the busted lock cylinder.

Not knowing, I ordered a new door lock/latch assy and quickly realized it was the same thing as I had in the door originally.

It had a broken rod retainer that allowed the relay rod to fall off, making the door key cylinder totally inoperative.

I had a new cylinder-lock rekeyed to my ignition key and installed it and again ... no deal!

I took the old door latch out ---- benched it and tested it with a 12V source and saw it had a micro switch in it that when pushed by the relay rod ... then used to motor in the latch to unlock it.

I could mechanically ---without 12V --- make it lock ---but not unlock ... and that's what I have now.

With a dead battery, it won't unlock itself or the other doors .... which we KNOW are electrical, not mechanical in the they have no interior pull-up knobs nor key holes.

AFAIK ... both the left doors use the same lock-latch and perhaps by special order or ignorant stupidity, someone put a rear latch in the front door ... but, again, AFAIK ... they have the same part number .... and I'm still mystified if it was on purpose or an ignorant mistake.

Hence ... I hooked up the red wire under the hood, added a 20A fuse and installed a new 7-pin receiver and a 7-pin plug with the B+ and B- wires coming out of it to hook up whatever 12V source I might have or can find to send power backwards to the battery through the underhood fuse panel via that red wire.

It has worked for me once so far and I really don't want to need to use it again. But I can if necessary.


MIKE ---- YOUR PACKAGE IS IN THE MAIL AT $6.25.
Why don't you take that $6.25 and the $10.00 you are gonna send me, and add another $3.75 to it and buy a PREMIUM MEMBERSHIP with it ... ok?​
I'm good with that if you are ......




.
 

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Premium Member
2002 Chevrolet TrailBlazer LTZ 4.2L
Joined
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201 Posts
You're a gentleman and a scholar. Check out the sweet new badge I got!

I could also pick your brain forever on all things Trailblazer, as I am recently converted.

I do have a question for you about changing the battery. I've noticed in a lot of your replies on this forum you tell others not to remove the battery. I assume this has to do with the auto calibration of the HVAC system afterwards and the likelihood of old gears and teeth being stripped and broken. Do you have a recommendation for changing the battery without this issue?

If it helps, I have a Roco GB40 (NOCO - 1000A Lithium Jump Starter - GB40) jump box and was thinking I could attach the positive to the AUX battery post near the fuse box and the negative to a ground, turn on the boost setting and let it maintain the power while I do the swap. What do you think?
 

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Premium Member
'05 Chevy TB EXT
Joined
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4,644 Posts
You're a gentleman and a scholar. Check out the sweet new badge I got!

I could also pick your brain forever on all things Trailblazer, as I am recently converted.

I do have a question for you about changing the battery. I've noticed in a lot of your replies on this forum you tell others not to remove the battery. I assume this has to do with the auto calibration of the HVAC system afterwards and the likelihood of old gears and teeth being stripped and broken. Do you have a recommendation for changing the battery without this issue?

If it helps, I have a Roco GB40 (NOCO - 1000A Lithium Jump Starter - GB40) jump box and was thinking I could attach the positive to the AUX battery post near the fuse box and the negative to a ground, turn on the boost setting and let it maintain the power while I do the swap. What do you think?
I see you got a Texaco Star..... nice, Imma gonna try to get a few more to join up too. Thanks for that.


And ...... that's a very good way to change the battery.

I use my emergency jump box that way by pulling the fuse cover off and putting the positive on the power input to the IN positive (+) stud.

Although I take some heat for it, I just ground the negative to an AC line ... because we're not jump starting the engine ... the current pull should be a lot less than 1/100th of an Amp. I just don't open the doors (interior lights) and certainly won't try to start the engine from that ground position either.

It's just a very convenient place to get a ground ... that's all. It might will create a problem IF we ask aluminum compressor lines to carry starting current.

Then remove the battery. The computers never know the battery's missing!

You'll do fine.
 

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Premium Member
2002 Chevrolet TrailBlazer LTZ 4.2L
Joined
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201 Posts
I see you got a Texaco Star..... nice, Imma gonna try to get a few more to join up too. Thanks for that.


And ...... that's a very good way to change the battery.

I use my emergency jump box that way by pulling the fuse cover off and putting the positive on the power input to the IN positive (+) stud.

Although I take some heat for it, I just ground the negative to an AC line ... because we're not jump starting the engine ... the current pull should be a lot less than 1/100th of an Amp. I just don't open the doors (interior lights) and certainly won't try to start the engine from that ground position either.

It's just a very convenient place to get a ground ... that's all. It might will create a problem IF we ask aluminum compressor lines to carry starting current.

Then remove the battery. The computers never know the battery's missing!

You'll do fine.
Excellent. That was what I was hoping to hear. I've noticed there are a few ground points on the chassis close to the battery. I also noticed the compressor line that snakes up and around near the engine lift spot over the alternator. If those short cables can reach, I'll definitely use that spot. Otherwise, chassis ground it is.

I appreciate you and your vast wealth of knowledge.
 
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