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I've purchased a 2002 trailblazer ls a couple months back and been having nothing but issues in the front suspension it appears to have the 2" leveling kit with the front strut spacers I've replace upper and lower ball joints passenger cv axel both outer tie rod ends and I'm having issues with the drivers side cv axel now on number 2 and both times I can spin the wheel about a quarter turn and it hangs up jerking the whole engine I know my motor mounts are lose but what would cause the cv axel to hang up like that passenger side spins good I'm wondering if I need a extended axel maybe? Also i have aftermarket 17s on it with almost no offset if any with 265 70 17s along with that when I got it on the lift the front spindles rub on the coil springs any input please?
 

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All that in one sentence makes it hard to read - let alone diagnose.

1/4 turn is usually indicative of a bad or over-flexed outer CV joint - the outer is the suspect one here as the inner plunger has three troichoid sliding balls that allow the shaft to move in and out.

When the vehicle has normal suspension loading - like a floor jack directly under the outer balljoint, is there a lot of deflection angle to the outer joint? A lift kit can place a lot of changes to the flex-angle and like I said - 1/4 turn problems usually means the outside joint.
 

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This is the second cv axel I've replaced it appears to be about a 1/16th of an inch away from being pushed in all the way. However with the 2 inch strut spacer type lift would I possibly be needing some type of extended axel?
 

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I'm about to enter the same game myself. I'm going up 2 inches.

But I've found articles about swapping and flipping the upper control arms.. the right goes on the left, but is installed upside down.

This is supposed to keep the axle from being overextended and at a crazy angle because the upper ballpoint will be on center plane.

I dunnow the whole whole story yet, but I'll be on it myself very soon.
 

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2006 gmc trailblazer_ls
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If you have a lift spacer that looks to be mounted above the strut mounting like kinda extends it? There are very common issues with binding on 4wd trailblazers and envoys using that kind of lift. They r recommend only for 2wd’s. The kinda of lift you want is the kind that you take apart the strut and install it or the one im looking at is bds or rough country which replace the top mount of the strut all together. This sounds like a binding issues and i would bet the kinda lift you have is the culprit. Let me know what becomes of it.
 

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Also the upper ball joint is part of the knuckle and all flipping upper control arms does is put the upper balljoint at a more desired angle when lifting. At 2” you dont really need it but its a good thing to do anyways. His issue i would bet is the type of lift he has. What he is describing sounds a lot like binding and its a common issue if you use lift that basically goes on top of the factory strut mount.
 

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Also the upper ball joint is part of the knuckle and all flipping upper control arms does is put the upper balljoint at a more desired angle when lifting. At 2” you dont really need it but its a good thing to do anyways. His issue i would bet is the type of lift he has. What he is describing sounds a lot like binding and its a common issue if you use lift that basically goes on top of the factory strut mount.
Thank-you very much 06. I'm new at TBs, as when I retired from my auto shops, they hadn't come into my doors yet as they were still pretty new and on factory warranted.

I was amused, then amazed at the in-line 6 cylinder 4.2L and I find it has a lot of torque and is inherently smoother than my 4.3 L in my Astro Van.

I have the type of struts with the upper spacers, made by Rancho Suspension, so now I wonder if I'll have troubles with the lift at the axles. I'm going to switch-n-flip the upper control arms and see where that gets me.

QUESTION.... can the front differential be removed with the engine in the frame? There is a serious leak in it.... as I filled it and a lot leaked out. Right now there are only the inner stubs of the axles shoved into the differential. The front axles... new ones.... are still in the box.

I figgered to install the new axles when I did the 2 inch front lift.

The rear lift I did already.... and I have a prerunner front tubular bumper with skid plate to install at the same time too.
 

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Im not sure on the front dif. I have the 5.3 in my voy. Ive had my denali voy for 2 yrs now and have learned a tons from this site and others. So i just try to spread my knowledge. If it were me i would think about maybe trying to return the front lift that basically extends the top mount. Some havent had any issues but there are more reports of 4wd guys having the issues with that type. Im planning on the rough country which basically replaces the whole top mount with a bigger one. And from what ive heard its the same as mark mc’s style. As he had first design and then bds and rough country copied. The front dif if I remember reading is very labor intensive removal. At least for the 5.3 like mine its what i saw. Its probably similar for the 4.2 as well.
 

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Also flipping front uppers wont have any affect on anything other then putting the upper ball joint at a better angle so it wont wear as quickly. But its still a good thing to do so you can get alignment to exact factory spec
 
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