Pressure test for a plugged cat first --- it's cheap and a slam-dunk easy test at almost any muffler shop.
When you say cheap, how much are we talking? Im working with my hubbys money rn while he's over seas so I need to know how much to ask him for the moneyPressure test for a plugged cat first --- it's cheap and a slam-dunk easy test at almost any muffler shop.
Realistically .... $30 - $40 for the pressure test including the screw fitting.When you say cheap, how much are we talking? Im working with my hubbys money rn while he's over seas so I need to know how much to ask him for the money
Lots of great things here for me to check! I just did an oil change (though my oil filler cap said to use 5W-30/7qt)Dirty engine oil can cause sluggishness as well.
Is the check engine light on? Does it work?
Simple items you can do yourself.
Do the simple stuff first:
Engine oil change. Use the correct oil - 10W30. 7quarts on the 4.2 inline 6 cylinder.
What does the inside of the oil filler cap look like?
Is transmission fluid up to the full line? Uses Dexron VI. Top it off. What does it look like?
Is the air filter totally plugged up or can you see sunshine through it? You'll need a screwdriver to get it out.
When was last time fuel filter was replaced? Google how to change it - no jack needed.
Then, like Ravalli says, have a muffler shop check for plugged cat. At 212K, that's a good bet, but what I've listed above are maintenance items which will need to be done regardless since we have no maintenance history on the vehicle.
DO NOT shoot the parts cannon willy-nilly or you may see lots of hubby's money go bye-bye.
Welcome to the Forum!
Don't be afraid to ask questions as none of us are mind readers!
I mean I did do my own check at home once AAMCO gave me the advise to see how the parts were and they definitely needed to be replaced. The shaft for the fan clutch was cracked and splitting and the tensioner was weak (not horrible but definitely showed signs of low tension and risked belt slipping)... The VVT solenoid they said was completely dead and I had my brother confirm this hence why im replacing that as well... As for the transmission, Im not really comfortable doing any of that work myself because I know if I mess that up then thats gonna be an expensive screw upDon't flush the transmission ... service it correctly by dropping the pan and then you can see inside to get a decent appraisal of it.
Tear the old filter apart to see what it's caught and clean the magnet to see how much ferrous material it caught too.
Those things won't be done by flushing. You dont need to replace all the fluid every time ... besides, I would never allow my customers to risk crippling their vehicle by flushing.
I've had overhauls created by other shops that did flushing. It's just risky on an older unit.
PS ... the reason why I recommend the drill-and-screw pressure test is because not many people have the special socket to remove an oxygen sensor without damaging it.
PPS ... don't take any advice from AAMCO. That's like going to a witch doctor for orthopedic surgery. Belts, hoses and a wax job won't fix performance issues.
I couldn't disagree more on not flushing the transmission. I flush everything I own no matter the miles and have yet to kill one. Granted I don't do it to try and fix something, rather old, nasty, varnished fluid simply cannot perform as well as fresh fluid. I drop the pan, put a new filter in, and refill. Next I pop off the return line, shove a hose over it, and put that in a milk jug. Fire up the car and let the tranny do the pumping. Fill 3 gallon jugs and you're good and clean.Don't flush the transmission ... service it correctly by dropping the pan and then you can see inside to get a decent appraisal of it.
Tear the old filter apart to see what it's caught and clean the magnet to see how much ferrous material it caught too.
Those things won't be done by flushing. You dont need to replace all the fluid every time ... besides, I would never allow my customers to risk crippling their vehicle by flushing.
I've had overhauls created by other shops that did flushing. It's just risky on an older unit.
PS ... the reason why I recommend the drill-and-screw pressure test is because not many people have the special socket to remove an oxygen sensor without damaging it.
PPS ... don't take any advice from AAMCO. That's like going to a witch doctor for orthopedic surgery. Belts, hoses and a wax job won't fix performance issues.
Im honestly just trying to make it so the trailblazer can tow a small trailer from AZ to New Hampshire when my hubby gets out of the Marines... I replaced the VVT solenoid just now and im waiting for the codes to clear so I can drive it around the next couple days but some codes that did pop up were P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1) and P1345 (Electrical Short: Ignition Coil Output Stage 3) not including the P0014 ('B' Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Or System Performance Bank 1) I am NOT getting any codes regarding the transmission which I am glad for, I just want to change the fluid because it has 212k miles on itI couldn't disagree more on not flushing the transmission. I flush everything I own no matter the miles and have yet to kill one. Granted I don't do it to try and fix something, rather old, nasty, varnished fluid simply cannot perform as well as fresh fluid. I drop the pan, put a new filter in, and refill. Next I pop off the return line, shove a hose over it, and put that in a milk jug. Fire up the car and let the tranny do the pumping. Fill 3 gallon jugs and you're good and clean.
Also OP, was this thing ever not gutless? I'm wondering if when it's all 100% it won't be up to what you're expecting? They're not rocketships.
Good to know, ill give that a try... As it was I was thinking of replacing all the plugs and coils anyway cause no one replaces t hose until theyre bad... As for trailer size, we were wanting to get a 14x6 cargo to convert into a camper after the move and stuff... Nothing crazyIf the trans is healthy absolutely flush it the way I described, it will buy you life in the long run. How big of a trailer do you want to tow? My sister had a 06ish 4.2 TB and I used it to tow Uhaul's biggest trailer from MI to CO. I kept it in 3rd gear the whole time and it was a champ the whole way, zero mods. The catalyst code may be a second order effect of the other stuff. If I were you, I'd swap #3's coil with another and see if the code stays or follows. If it follows, you know it's a junk coil.
I just looked and it was a 6x12 tandem axle that I hauled my sister's crap out here in (in her own car).Good to know, ill give that a try... As it was I was thinking of replacing all the plugs and coils anyway cause no one replaces t hose until theyre bad... As for trailer size, we were wanting to get a 14x6 cargo to convert into a camper after the move and stuff... Nothing crazy
Yes, because my single post pertains to a single vehicle let alone a single transmission type. Keep pushing 20 year old, nasty, broken down fluid on folks with otherwise healthy vehicles who'd actually benefit from a flush. Great way to make their vehicles last forever.By all means ---- flush it!
That singular process bought me a 52 foot yacht in Dana Point.
View attachment 58812
Love it --- bad advice backed up by ONE anecdote.
Regardless of your stance on the transmission fluid flush, cylinder 3 has something up so expect that to return.Look, all I know is the transmission fluid is black and smells burnt... it needs to go period... As of right now, I cleared the codes and I will see what pops back up (if anything) in a couple days after driving it around and what not... Ill post again on saturday with what ever codes popped up and go from there
Yeah I already priced the ignition coil from Rock Auto... will order it tomorrow after work... Also Ravalli, Its kind of hard to trust the advise from someone who suggested to drill a hole in my muffler/cat converter...Regardless of your stance on the transmission fluid flush, cylinder 3 has something up so expect that to return.