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02 trailblazer cranks but won't start

614 Views 28 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Ravalli Surfer
I unhooked the wire harnesses from the pcm to clean them with electrical cleaning spray. Plugged everything back in... cranks but won't start.
Before, it started instantly.
No clue...no codes...
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I have a 2002 and nothing flickers when I let off the accelerator, both before and after replacing all the cluster bulbs to LED. Might want to check the cluster relay for any hang-ups.
I'll keep looking for the cluster relay. The diagrams on the cover ain't what they used to be.
I found the fuse. It's good.
Alot of people get flickering on their dash.
They're online bitchin about it.
Doesn't effect drivability
Congrats on finding that the fuel pump relay grew legs and moved on you.

Regarding the flickering IP lights, check the little ground cable that goes from the negative battery cable terminal connector over to the body of your TrailBlazer on the driver's side. Remove the bolt and make sure the area where it connects to is clean, clean, and clean. If that ground connection is dirty, funny things can happen.

DO NOT REMOVE THE BIG NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE FROM THE BATTERY.

DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY - REMOVE THE APPROPRIATE FUSE(S). Why? Because when you reconnect the battery, the HVAC actuators inside of the dash are commanded to run a recalibration procedure which stresses the old brittle plastic gears inside the actuators and the brittle plastic gears break and leaves you unable to control where the air comes out, or control the temperature of the air, etc. Replacing at least one of them literally requires the removal of the entire dash! So, if you ever need to actually disconnect the battery, such as in the case of needing to install a new battery, be sure and use some kind of Keep Memory Alive (KAM) device to avoid the HVAC actuator recalibration routine.
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Is this a good one?

Congrats on finding that the fuel pump relay grew legs and moved on you.

Regarding the flickering IP lights, check the little ground cable that goes from the negative battery cable terminal connector over to the body of your TrailBlazer on the driver's side. Remove the bolt and make sure the area where it connects to is clean, clean, and clean. If that ground connection is dirty, funny things can happen.

DO NOT REMOVE THE BIG NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE FROM THE BATTERY.

DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY - REMOVE THE APPROPRIATE FUSE(S). Why? Because when you reconnect the battery, the HVAC actuators inside of the dash are commanded to run a recalibration procedure which stresses the old brittle plastic gears inside the actuators and the brittle plastic gears break and leaves you unable to control where the air comes out, or control the temperature of the air, etc. Replacing at least one of them literally requires the removal of the entire dash! So, if you ever need to actually disconnect the battery, such as in the case of needing to install a new battery, be sure and use some kind of Keep Memory Alive (KAM) device to avoid the HVAC actuator recalibration routine.
Looks good to me.

Because I have a few jump packs, I purchased this to use:


It does work.
Looks good to me.

Because I have a few jump packs, I purchased this to use:


It does work.
This one requires a separate battery box to work, correct?
Yes, or another vehicle.
This one requires a separate battery box to work, correct?
This is all well-n-good --- but you can just use a jump pack unit and put the clips on the positive and negative studs on the relay/fuse pack.

It's a lot better than backfeeding the OBD2 port and possibly having a mismatch or denial of use because the OBD2 port won't accept outside power ... too much hoopla!

Just jump directly to the relay/fuse box and the car won't even know you changed the battery and you're not gonna get the OBD2 port angry at you either.

Everybody NEEDS a jump pack --- very FEW people need an OBD2 backfeeding maintenancer.
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